Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2017
The Dönnhoff family first came to the Nahe region over 200 years ago, and after establishing a modest farm slowly evolved into a full-fledged wine estate. Helmut Dönnhoff has been making the wine since 1971, and now his son Cornelius works alongside in the winery and in their 25 hectares of Erste Lage, or grand cru vineyards. Their holdings represent some of the best in the Nahe and all of Germany. Oberhäuser Leistenberg, the oldest vineyard held by the family, has slate soils and produces fruity wines with elegant acidity.
Vigorous aroma and vigorous palate, high-toned and gingery, cox-orange (pippins, the greatest variety of apple) and vanilla; I’m waiting to see the mid-palate step up to redeem the acidity, but it’s already a thrill and a half. — Terry Theise